Tikin Xic (Fish Roasted in Banana Leaves)

What You Need
Ingredients
Preparation
Tikin Xic is traditional in the Yucatán, where fish is painted with a citrusy achiote paste, wrapped in banana leaves, and roasted over coals. Tikin translates to “dry fish” in Mayan – the dish used to be made with dried fish – and xik, meaning fish fin. Today’s versions are made with fresh, meaty fish such as grouper (mero) or sea bass (lobina).
*This recipe originally ran in Mexico on HexClad.mx.
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Make the onions. In a non-reactive medium bowl, stir onion with lime juice, habanero, and a pinch of salt. Cover and refrigerate overnight. Drain and season with salt.
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Meanwhile, marinate the fish. In a HexClad 8"/20 cm Hybrid Fry Pan, toast the achiote powder, cumin, oregano, cloves, allspice, and peppercorns over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Transfer spices to a blender along with orange juice, vinegar, oil, garlic, lime juice, and salt; process until smooth, about 30 seconds, stopping to scrape down sides as needed.
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Pat fish fillets dry with paper towels; arrange in a single layer in a medium shallow bowl. Pour achiote marinade over fish and spread with a pastry brush all over the fish. Cover and refrigerate for 8 hours or overnight.
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Preheat oven to 400°F/200°C and position an oven rack 15 cm/6 inches from the heat source. Bring fish to room temperature and season with salt. Wipe both sides of banana leaves with a damp kitchen towel to remove any debris. Using tongs, hold each leaf a few inches over a gas flame, turning often, until softened and aromatic, about 3 minutes. (The leaves will darken as they wilt.)
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Wipe off excess marinade from fish; season both sides with salt. Arrange two banana leaves, ridged side down, to cover the bottom of a HexClad 14"/35 cm Hybrid Pan. Place fillets on top of the banana leaves and cover with the remaining leaves, folding the leaves over the fish to make a packet around the fillets.
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Bake 10 minutes, until fish starts to flake. Remove the pan from the oven and remove the banana leaves on top to uncover the fillets. Switch oven to broil at the highest setting and return the pan to oven. Broil until fish is opaque with deep brown spots, about 6 minutes for medium-rare. If your fillets are thinner, reduce cooking time by 2 minutes. If you prefer more well-done fish, add 1 or 2 minutes to the cooking time.
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Remove the banana leaves at the top and serve directly in the pan, setting it on a trivet. Top fish with the pickled onions and serve with lime wedges, tortillas, and black beans.
Make Ahead The pickled onions can be refrigerated for up to 3 days.