BenGingi's 7 Tips for the Best-Ever Latkes
As the days grow shorter and Hanukkah draws near, we bubble over with joy in anticipation of latkes. This year, we’re celebrating the miracle of the oil lasting eight nights with the crispiest-ever latke recipe from New York-based chef, baker and entrepreneur Ben Siman Tov—better known as @BenGingi on Instagram. For Siman Tov, making homemade latkes is more than just a culinary tradition. After eating store-bought latkes that his grandmother bought every Hanukkah, this fancy rendition is a way of honoring his beloved Safta and giving himself and his family the memory he always wanted growing up. To make your own latkes worthy of the celebration, Siman Tov is sharing his essential tips.
1. HAWAIJ IS KEY TO GOLDEN, GROWN-UP LATKES
A pinch of hawaij spice mix offers a grown-up twist on the classic, infusing the potato mixture with its fragrant taste. This flavorful Middle Eastern staple varies in composition, but the primary ingredients tend to be turmeric, fenugreek, black pepper, cumin, cardamom, cloves and coriander. Siman Tov loves the blend for its rich flavor and how turmeric “enhances the golden color of the latke.”
2. UPGRADE YOUR SCHMEAR
Labneh is not just the condiment that Siman Tov grew up eating on latkes, it’s also a twist on the sour cream with which Americans might be more familiar. “Labneh is thicker than sour cream, so when you put it on top of a hot latke, it doesn’t get as runny,” he said. “Another reason I prefer labneh over sour cream is because it has salt, sour cream does not, and I think that balance makes for the perfect bite in every latke.”
3. GET YOUR TOOLS READY
Latke success isn’t solely about getting the oil to the right temperature (though that matters, too). Siman Tov recommends having a few tools on hand for maximum success: A 10” or 12” HexClad Hybrid Fry Pan, block grater, metal spatula, 3-QT stainless steel mixing bowl, wire cooling rack, rimmed baking sheet, splatter screen and plenty of paper towels for cleanup. While you might be tempted to use a food processor to grate the potatoes, said Siman Tov, that can give the latkes a gummy texture. Avoid that by using a box grater.
4. SAVE THE STARCH
For maximum crispiness, Siman Tov recommends saving the excess starch that gathers at the bottom of the mixing bowl after you grate and squeeze the potatoes. “Leave the liquid in the mixing bowl for approximately 10 minutes,” he suggests. At this point, potato starch will be left behind, which you’ll mix back into the latke mixture before frying to enhance the crispy texture.
5. FIND THE SWEET (HEAT) SPOT
Keep your heat on medium, not high, said Siman Tov. Even if you’re anxious to get those latkes cooked and into your belly, taking the time to evenly cook the latkes through ensures they’ll turn out both crispy and golden. That said, he cautioned against cooking the latkes too slowly, which “will cause the latkes to soak up a lot of oil.” High heat, meanwhile, will mean the latkes “burn before the inside is cooked through.” Bottom line? Stick to the happy medium.
6. DRAIN ON A RACK, NOT A TOWEL
It might seem sensible to transfer your perfectly crispy latke to a paper towel, as many fried food recipes will call for, but that defeats the purpose, said Siman Tov. A paper towel will soak up all that delicious oil and make the bottom soggy. Instead, he recommended placing them on a wire rack set over a rimmed baking sheet. Pro tip: This allows you to easily transfer premade latkes to the oven for a quick reheat (see below).
7. MAKE THEM IN ADVANCE
There’s no reason you should have to stand over the stove while your guests enjoy the fruits of your labor. Get the mess cleaned up in advance with Siman Tov’s make-ahead tip: “Air-fry batches in single layers (don’t stack them or overcrowd the basket) or bake on a wire rack set over a rimmed baking sheet for 5 minutes in a 450º F oven until crispy.
Not feeling latkes this year? No problem. “There are many different ways you can bring oil to the party,” said Siman Tov. He recommended making an oil-based dressing for your salad, drizzling hummus with olive oil for an easy app, serving an olive oil cake for dessert, or simply dishing up ice cream and drizzling it with nice olive oil (and a few flakes of high-quality sea salt, we’d add).
Get that latke recipe here!
