Preparation

Preheat the oven to 325°F.

Season each side of the brisket with 2 heavy pinches each of salt and pepper. In a large dutch oven (see headnote), heat the vegetable oil over medium-high heat. Sear the brisket, turning it as needed, until golden brown on all sides, 15 to 20 minutes. Transfer the brisket to a platter.

Reduce the heat to medium, then add the onions, mushrooms, and garlic to the pot. Cook, stirring often, until softened and lightly caramelized, 10 to 15 minutes. Add the tomato paste, stirring to coat all the vegetables, and cook until lightly caramelized, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the wine, then stir continuously with a wooden spoon for 1 minute to scrape up any browned bits on the bottom of the pot.

Stir in the crushed tomatoes, soy sauce, vinegar, carrots, and 2 heavy pinches each of salt and pepper, then return the brisket to the pot. Tie together the bay leaves, thyme, and rosemary with a small piece of butcher’s twine (tying is optional, but makes it much easier to remove the herbs after cooking) and nestle the herb bundle in the pot. Bring to a simmer, then cover the pot and transfer to the oven. Cook for 3 to 31/2 hours, until the brisket is very tender when pierced with a fork. Remove from the oven and let cool completely, then refrigerate overnight.

The next day, skim off and discard any fat, if desired, and discard the herbs. Transfer the brisket to a cutting board and cut it across the grain (perpendicular to the fibers you’ll see running through the brisket) into 1/4-inch- thick slices. Return the meat to the sauce and heat over medium heat until warmed through. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper, then serve. Store leftovers in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.