In Praise of the Braise
Few dishes are as full of pleasant contradictions as the braise: It is both humble and elegant, laid-back and time-consuming —in a Zen way.
Braises begin by searing meat or another protein over high heat before cooking it gently for a long time over low heat in a small amount of liquid until it becomes meltingly tender. As Samin Nosrat notes in her book Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat, heat changes the collagen in tough connective tissue into gelatin. Braising is ideal for tough cuts of meat that benefit from this transformational process; you’re likely to see this method used for recipes like brisket, osso buco and pot roast. It's the method of choice for stews that involve large chunks of meat, too.
Though you technically could braise a piece of meat in a small pot, this method lends itself well to larger cuts of meat. For a braise, grab your Dutch oven (either your 5-quart or 6.5 quart oval) or your 8-quart Hybrid Stock Pot. In a pinch, a roasting pan works for longer cuts of meat—such as a half brisket—that won’t fit in your largest pot.
The key is to avoid crowding a huge piece of meat, says HexClad Food Director Laura Rege. In general, she chooses a Dutch Oven, but the pot isn’t as important as the four tips Rege shared with us:
1. SEAR THE MEAT FIRST
Don’t skip searing the meat, said Rege. “Browning the meat adds so much flavor, and makes a huge difference in the end of the dish.” After you sear the meat on all sides, take it out of the pot, cook your mirepoix in the remaining fat, and bring your braising liquid up to a boil before returning the roast to the pot.
2. TRANSFER THE BRAISE AT FULL BOIL
Though you want the braise to cook low and slow, it is essential to transfer the pot to the oven while at a full boil, said Rege. “If you transfer it without taking this step, it will take so long for the liquid to reach the required simmering temperature that the braise will take forever.” Essentially, bringing it to a boil gives the meat a head start.
3. DON’T CRANK THE OVEN
Do not turn the oven up above 325ºF (162ºF). That temperature is hot enough to maintain the simmer but not so hot it will rise to a boil. You want "gentle cooking," says Rege.
4. KEEP A LID ON IT
Braises hang out in the oven for so long that the liquid is at risk of evaporating into the heat of the oven without a lid, said Rege. Keep it on until the end of cooking, when you might decide to reduce the braising liquid into a sauce.
4. BRAISES TO GET YOU THROUGH THE COLD MONTHS
Osso Buco with Sunflower Seed Gremolata
Our version of the classic Italian osso buco pairs veal shanks with a sunflower seed gremolata—a zesty herb condiment—and ultra-creamy polenta. Shred any leftover meat and toss it with your favorite pasta and plenty of pecorino.
Dr Pepper Pulled Pork Sandwiches
If you’ve ever enjoyed a pulled pork sandwich, then you love a classic braise. Here, Dr Pepper brings extra tenderizing power to the meat.
For all your brisket needs, look no further than Jake Cohen’s brisket, which leans hard on umami-rich ingredients like mushrooms, tomato paste and soy sauce. Make it your holiday go-to, from the family break fast straight through to Passover, and every occasion in between.
Is there a more infamous braise than pot roast? Our recipe transforms a boneless beef shoulder roast into a meal worthy of special occasions and family gatherings. There’s an entire bottle of red wine in this recipe, but feel free to substitute beef broth if you prefer. Just remember to adjust the vinegar and sugar to taste at the end of cooking.
All hail the mighty braise.
